absentfather

Letters for my kids to read in the future, from around the world now

Archive for the tag “safari”

Nairobi National Park (and a small car crash) #travel

Dear G & B

I’m sitting by the pool on a Sunday in Mombasa at the Whitesands Hotel, palm trees swaying in the wind and Afro beats music drifting over from the bar, sipping a beer. I can’t work today and downtime like this is great, although it is over a week since I left you guys at home and would much rather be there. Or have you here.
I’ve just arrived from Nairobi after a short flight past Mount Kenya. I haven’t been here for 6 years and nothing much has changed, except it is a lot quieter, I suppose because of perceived risks of terrorism.
Mt Kenya from the plane

Mt Kenya from the plane

I was working for 3 days in Nairobi but finished yesterday at 3pm so managed to arrange a quick trip to Nairobi National Park, which is a game reserve right next to the city containing all the wildlife you expect in Kenya. The car that picked me up (along with 4 other people) was a bit beaten up and I assumed that we’d be on Tarmac roads for the whole trip. After a short drive we arrived at the gates and had the usual wait for tickets that you expect with any organised activity in Africa. As soon as we set off we saw small antelope and a tortoise walking along the side of the road. We stopped at the ivory burning sites where dignitaries burn seized poached tusks as a symbol of disdain for the Ivory trade. Great views out across the plains but weird to still see the city in the background.
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Wild animals

Wild animals

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Just chillin'

Just chillin’

We next came across herds of huge buffalo with calves and birds sitting on their backs, more antelope, zebra, a lone ostrich running behind us and some distant giraffes striding through the tall bush. As the sun went down it cast a lovely hue over the clouds and the big sky turned dramatic. Seems unreal to be so close to a capital city with that backdrop.
Pano of the National Park

Pano of the National Park

Up close with some big buffalo

Up close with some big buffalo

Buffalo feeding in some amazing light

Buffalo feeding in some amazing light

Ostrich silhouette

Ostrich silhouette

The roads were not Tarmac, but very much potted dirt tracks and boulders. After a while there was a knocking noise from the fron of the car which sounded a bit serious. We made it out of the camp after dark and started the short journey home, the knocking getting louder. I told the driver I thought he might have problems and it sounded serious, so he should slow down. He did, and sure enough we turned a corner and his front right wheel snapped off sending us skidding into a lay by. We were close to the hotel, so after checking he was ok, we set off on foot to finish the journey. If he had been going faster it might have been serious.
Whoops!

Whoops!

Only two days here then back to you guys. Bea has had her first hair cut and G keeps getting all the awards possible at school, bright as a button. So proud.
Love
Dad x

Rhino Tracking in Botswana

Dear George

Today was one that I’ll remember forever. I went Rhino tracking in the bush just outside Gaborone (pronounced Hab-or-own-eh) in a game park called Molokodi. I have to say that whilst getting dressed at 6am this morning that I was dubious of how good the park would be and my expectations weren’t high. I arrived at about 7:15 and set off with one English speaking guide and one tracker who carried a rifle.

We started in a typical safari truck and followed some trails, scanning the sand for Rhino prints. In the meantime I saw a large male giraffe, some impala, an ostrich, some warthogs and their piglets, a kudu and a fluttering of brightly coloured bird species. The weather was perfect: not too hot and really crisp and sunny. We found some tracks after about 45 minutes and set off on foot throught the bush to follow them.

The tracker knew it was a female and calf and showed me how he identified where they had been – prints, rocks turned over, recent tree damage, etc. We came across some warm Rhino poo after about 45 minutes and I knew that we couldn’t be far away. It was really exciting. The tracker crouched down and pointed. Around 50 yards away through the trees we saw them weaving in amongst the scrub. The baby heard us (or could smell us) and bolted off, so we had to follow them both on foot again. We got slightly closer for a few more seconds and then they ran again. This went on a few more times until we manoeuvred downwind from them. They watched us closely but let us get much nearer. Scarily near. My heart was racing, but eventually they seemed pretty comfortable that we weren’t a threat and settled down. At one point they even lay down in the sun, probably tired from the chase.

I took hundreds of photos, and it was a really magical experience. After a while they started to move off and we didn’t bother them this time. Instead we trekked back through the scrub trying not to get caught up in the huge spiders webs that hang everywhere with terrifying-looking spiders in the middle of each. We saw some more birdlife then made our way back to the truck which took us to see a tame cheetah in an enclosure. His parents died when he was young so never learnt how to hunt. You can even stroke him, which is pretty scary. Amazing growling purr that he makes and such a beautiful animal.

We had lunch by a very scenic lake and then headed back to the hotel where I had to get changed and do a bit more work. I was on a total high. A great experience.

Love

Dad

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