absentfather

Letters for my kids to read in the future, from around the world now

Archive for the tag “seafood”

Food on Sticks: Xiamen, China

Squid on a stick

Dear G, B and E

At the end of my last visit to China, I visited Xiamen, a seaside city in the south east Fujian province, looking out towards Taiwan. It’s a smaller Chinese city with (only!) about five million people and is famed for its seafood and tea.

And boy, do they love to eat seafood. The Chinese will be the first to admit that they have a preoccupation with food, but Xiamen was a whole new level. I guess many of the people I saw were on holiday so wanted to find and eat the foods they were visiting Xiamen to eat, but the queues for stalls were huge. As was the scale of consumption.

I walked down Zhongshan Road which is a pedestrianised central street lined with food stalls and shops aimed at tourists. Amazing to see people harvesting pearls from farmed oysters and making jewellery on the spot. Chinese liquor (bai jeo, literally white alcohol) in various elaborate bottles, some shaped as missiles and artillery shells. Dried food stuffs (such as 1 metre-long fish) stacked high in shops. But most impressive was the freshly cooked food. And most of it can be bought on a stick for ease of consumption on the hoof.

Fancy a whole BBQ squid? No problem, cooked in front of you in minutes on a stick. Deep fried prawns? Have several, on a skewer. A foot long sausage? You can have one, but it has to be on a stick.

I’m not going to lie, I was whipped up into a frenzy and stuffed my face. In rough order I had:

An oyster pancake (deep fried and so good)

A squid on a stick

A plate of mantis prawns

A bowl of razor clams

Potatoes slices on a stick

A mango smoothie with mango ice cream and mango slices on top

The following evening I went over to Gulangyu island which sits in the bay looking back at Xiamen. It’s where all the old embassies used to be and so has lots of pretty architecture and walks.

On an island further towards Taiwan the Chinese government have positioned a huge sign which reads “One country, two systems”. Which is a bit galling for the Taiwanese.

Anyway, Xiamen is quite nice and is in the running for my second favourite place on the Chinese mainland. It’s relaxed and the people are friendlier. I have work here if I want to come back anyway!

Love

Dad x

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Jeju Island and the “Sea Women”, South Korea

Henyeh (Sea Woman) and her octopus

Dear George

I was excited to have a couple of business meetings set up on the holiday island of Jeju, off the south coast of Korea. It is kind of like Korea’s Hawaii, where couples go on honeymoon and retired folk go to play golf. The number of visitors is over 5million a year and the population is only around 500,000.

Because of work I didn’t get to see many of the tourist attractions, such as the volcano crater in the middle of Hana Mountain, the countries largest mountain and one that dominates the skyline wherever you are on the island. I did however have a drive around and was able to admire:

– the indigenous Jeju horse, famous in South Korea. They race it.

– the graves that are dotted all over the landscape. They are a mound that is walled with local stone to keep the horse out. They look very Neolithic

– the cherry blossom, which lined many of the roads and was in full bloom

Cherry blossom

On my only evening there last night I was taken to the sea by my hosts to try some local delicacies. The “Henyeh” (literally sea women) are divers who free dive into the ocean year round to harvest sea cucumbers, octopus and sea urchins. They are a local tradition but are dying out because no young women want to do the job. Hence they are now all old ladies in their 70s or older who brave the icy conditions and risk of sharks and drowning every morning to earn a crust.

Until recently they wouldn’t earn very much at all, but the Jeju government has realised their value and has implemented ways for them to generate income through selling their produce directly to tourists. We sat at their plastic tables and ordered sea urchin with seaweed, sliced sea cucumber and some winkles that you had to manipulate out with a cocktail stick. All eaten raw. I can’t say it was a taste sensation, but was certainly interesting. I was really impressed with the jolly Henyeh women who were really no nonsense and full of mischief. Ours wrestled with an octopus she had caught and insisted that we eat everything she had given us.

Sea Urchin

Later that night I actually ate live octopus tentacles that suckered my mouth as they went down and wriggled in my throat. A really bizarre experience, but supposed to give men stamina! The rest of the food was amazing: a barbecue where everything was cooked in its shell. I have never seen such enormous molluscs and it was really delicious, if not a little wierd. I also tried the local poisons – maloki, which is a milky rice wine and soju a rice spirit like sake.

Seafood BBQ feast

Seafood BBQ Feast

I’d like to take you and your mother to Jeju next time, it’s a lovely place.

Love

Dad

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